The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins into the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on